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Modding DDC 1T Detailed (Picture Heavy)
Posted 11 January 2008 - 01:27 PM
If your on a tight budget and cant go for the 18w version and if your in luck by having the moddable version of the 10w one. You may be able to mod it into the 18w version.
If you dont mind your pump f***ing up, then go for it. i personally did mind but i fully knew what i was doing.
This mod should only be carried out if you are confident in undertaking such actions in the guide.
This mod will VOID YOUR WARRANTY ON THE PUMP.
This mod is not recommended by WatercoolingUK in anyway, shape or form.
This mod is not guaranteed on all pumps.
This mod is undertaken under your own accord, I or the forums will not be held liable for injury or damages caused by anyone who undertakes this mod.
This mod might just ruin your pump, so make sure your ok with that.
If your happy with the points highlighted above then by all means give it ago.
10w ddc-1t to 18w ddc 1plust pump Mod for Dummies
1. First of all your pump should look like this... dont try to do this to any old pump lying around. This is the Laing DDC 1t pro 10w.
2. Check the label to see if its the correct pump.
3. Flip the pump upside down, so the 4 screws on the bottom are visible.
4. Unscrew these in a X manner, slowly untightening each screw, so as to not put pressure on the other screws.
5. Once all screws are removed keep them to one side and it should look like this.
6. Flip it back over and remove the top of the pump which has the barbs on.
7. Make sure you dont lose the rubber ring which seals the pump, remove this and keep it to one side.
8. The pump that is able to be modded, should have a blue impeller. If so carry on by removing it, by just pulling it out.
10. Remove the motor from the housing. And flip it upside down so you can see the electronics board.
11. You should be able to see a small sticker with the pump revision on. Any ddc 1t thats 3.1, 3.2 or 3.3 should work. In this case its 3.3.
12. Take a look at this area on the board where the wires are soldered on. This is where we will be working. The 2 crossed will need to be bridged.
13. Once joined it should look like this. The points can be joined by a conductive pen, but solder is recommended to make a good contact for 18w to run through.
14. Thats it, now when putting the motor back into the housing make sure its in the right way so the wires come out of this groove.
15. Place the rubber ring and impeller back on.
16. Place the top back on in any orientation which suits you, but the barbs pointing away from the wires is recommended.
17. Flip it all over and place the screws in the holes and screw. Make sure you tighten in a X manner. So each corner is secured properly.
18. Observe the tops' seal, making sure there isnt any gaps that can cause leaks.
19. There you have it, 1 modded Laing ddc 18w Pump.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 02:08 PM
also i didn't realise it was already on the forums so it seemed a waste after writing it all up to just scrap it.
hopefully it may just benefit someone out there, in the slightest way.
im sorry if anyone feels as though im just copying other peoples work. that is not my intention.
if anyone feels as though similar threads should not be posted more than once, i will be more than happy to have it removed.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 02:12 PM
Good guide though well done
Posted 11 January 2008 - 02:19 PM
just read my reply again, i sounded like a tw*t lol
i could see what you were saying, i dont know why i started writing that long explaination. I just sorta kept goin LOL
anyways, people who like alot of picys can get alot from it.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 02:20 PM
Posted 11 January 2008 - 03:59 PM
Posted 11 January 2008 - 09:21 PM
This has already been done before.....?
http://www.watercool... ... php?t=1007
Indeed, Robump who did the previous guide contacted me on MSN around November time to tell me his DDC had died and it was the 10W which had been modified to 18W (he will even confirm this himself)
He bought the pump with a 5 year warranty in June 07, modified it in June 07, and it broke in November 07 leaving him with a pump he cannot RMA.
5 months or 5 years, you decide
Posted 11 January 2008 - 10:00 PM
5 months or 5 years, you decide
Why does that phrase sound familiar to me? the you decide bit anyway.
I had a vision of you as a game show host for a minute there Rob.
This mod almost doubles the rated voltage for this pump so like OC said in His post. at your own risk.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 10:25 PM
Posted 12 January 2008 - 06:23 PM
also considering the 10w, 18w and d5 are all bascially the same price now.
I found all of them for about 45 quid give or take a few quid thats it.
Posted 27 March 2008 - 10:56 AM
I heared the pumps are exactly the same only the 10W version has been 'underclocked'.
Don't know if Robump died because of the MOD or just because it was his time to go.
The price difference is about 30 euro I thought, will have to check this tonight.
Well atleast this thread made me more aware of the risk.
Nice guide anywayz
Posted 27 March 2008 - 11:39 AM
Also the PCB and hardware in the 10w and 18w are identical so there is no reason for one to fail as they are exactly the same.
This is a production cost thing, its cheaper for them to make the exact pump but one with less current going to the motor and selling it for cheaper, rather than to design a new pump and new assembly. makes sense really.
therefore i see no problem with this mod.
and i wouldn't say its underclocked but underpowered.
thanks for comment aswell mate, much appreciated.
Posted 27 March 2008 - 01:43 PM
What you are saying about the production benefits from producing the same pump and underpowering is 100% true.
The same thing happens with Philips remote controls. So if your expensive remote breaks down, just buy a cheap one, take out the PCB and put it in your old one. Offcourse the sizes have to match .
I think a breakdown is just unlucky and not so much the consequence of this MOD, especially when done skillfully
Posted 27 March 2008 - 02:14 PM
Not all of the components used to make the pumps will be 100% good quality - there will be the odd few which do make the cut, and so cannot be used in the 18W. These may be the ones which are used to make the 10W pumps rather than throw away the parts
Obviously, over time the quality rate will improve, but if the components are generic ones used in thousands of applications D-Tek may well be buying in the ones which fail for a cheaper price and using them in these pumps...
Posted 27 March 2008 - 02:18 PM
Think i will just use my pump in 10W in the beginning.
If I then don't like the temps then I can do the MOD.
EDIT: after some more thinking, how would they test is the pump is 18 or 10 W ?? When it's soldered you can't just unsolder it and make it looks like it's never been soldered before
So i still believe it's all the same.
Posted 30 May 2009 - 01:02 PM
Posted 30 May 2009 - 01:06 PM
Thats gotta be worth the extra cost when you blow it up
Posted 30 May 2009 - 03:40 PM
Posted 30 May 2009 - 05:53 PM
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